Norfolk

I saw the grand

Holkham Hall, sough facade

The Palladian mansion Holkham Hall

and the dilapidated.

Broken window on an old shed on a Norfolk Quay

Quayside workshop

The idyllic

Cottage on the edge of a duck pond. With ducks!

A peacful morning in Old Hunstanton

and the bleak.

Mud flats on the Norfolk Coast

Flat, flat, flat!

And I know where my heart lies.

I spent several hours one afternoon walking along the North Norfolk Coast Path.  It’s a long distance path along windswept shores and I picked a section going west between Holkham and Brancaster.  It was just about 10 and a half miles.  The first stretch was through miles of sand dunes, which can change shape overnight in strong winds.  Walking through the dunes you don’t see much except sky and the blue sea thistle.  And the odd naked man.  As you approach Burnham Overy the dunes fall away behind you and you find yourself walking along the top of the raised sea defences.  The land is flat here; there are no majestic cliffs to break the skyline and all you see are salt marshes stretching for miles.  This part of the coast is famous for it’s bird watching. Egrets, gulls, swans and curlews were two a penny, but I didn’t see anything more unusual.  (Note to self: take a pair of binoculars next time.)  In places, you walk along narrow board walks across the marsh with towering grasses on the seaward side and neatly clipped gardens on the other.  Walkers were rude.  At home everyone says hello, but here I’d step off the path to let people pass and not receive so much as a nod in thanks.  So I found myself singing a sarcastic “thank you” at the top of my voice as I stepped back on to the boards.  Nothing. Not a murmur.  Heads down, eyes fixed they trudged along like a defeated army.  These people, I thought, were as grey as the leaden skies.

I find it hard to describe my feelings about this landscape.  It was wonderful, elemental, but so bleak and exposed.  So, so different from home.  There was nowhere to shelter, nowhere to sit and take in the sky without also taking a battering from the winds.  It felt desolate, and at times the desolation felt like it would go on forever.  I would love to be there at dawn.  I can imagine the mist rising from the marshes in a watery light and the silence being broken by the dawn chorus. I’d sit there on the grassy path atop the sea defences, wrapped up in a blanket and a thick woollen scarf, breathing the sharp air.  My eyes would be closed and I’d be listening intently to the curlews. I’d ignore any passer by that broke my reverie with a “good morning” and I wouldn’t care if they too thought me as grey as the leaden skies.

A 10.5 mile walk between Holkham and Brancaster

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Holkham Hall

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Hunstanton

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Hope enjoyed the photo albums.  Back soon.

Love Stephie x

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6 comments to Norfolk

  • Robin

    Hi Steph, those marshes round Holkham are fantastic I thought, elemental and mysterious! Went there a few years ago with a twitcher friend. Must have been a bad day for you, I think people said hello to us when we were there – but I agree that not quite like at home.
    Another great place for me in Norfolk was Grimes Grave near Thetford. Weird landscape with its pits and an awesome cavern to climb down into! A prehistoric flint mine.
    But neither have anything on sunny Cornwall and the moor!

    • Now Thetford is somewhere I haven’t been yet Robin – I’ll add it to my list for next time, along with a pair of binoculars! I did go and see the Sea Henge in Kings Lynn museum though, it was incredible, but somehow diminished by being inside in the dark in glass cases. I think it must have been literally awesome to see it in situ on the beach, but that privilege has gone now :( I’d prefer to sit among the stones on the moor than in a dusty old museum any day! x

  • Janet & Keith

    Hello Stephanie, we enjoyed reading about your exploits in Norfolk and the photo’s were interesting too.
    We hope you enjoyed your visit to this part of the world, at least it made a change from Cornwall for a short period of time.
    Guess Kim is now back at school and is settling in all right.
    By the way did you get our birthday card all right?
    We spoke to Paul the other day, at least he has got his bed up now.
    Take care,
    Janet & Keith xx
    .

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